Spring Roof Inspection Checklist

Start your roof inspection from the ground. Walk around the house with binoculars, looking for visible damage. Check for missing, cracked, or curled shingles. Look for dark or bald spots where granules have worn away. Inspect the ridge cap—the shingles along the peak—for damage. Examine flashing around chimneys, vent pipes, and skylights for gaps or rust. Look at the gutters: an accumulation of black granules means significant shingle wear. Check for sagging areas in the roofline that indicate decking damage. Inspect the fascia and soffit for rot or water stains. After heavy rain, check for water stains on ceilings and walls inside the attic as a secondary measure.

If you are comfortable on a roof and have safety gear, a close-up inspection reveals issues invisible from the ground. Wear rubber-soled shoes and use a safety harness anchored to the chimney or ridge. Check each shingle tab—lift gently to see if the seal strip is intact. Replace any shingle that lifts easily. Inspect flashings: the sealant around pipe boots often cracks after winter. Apply roofing cement to any gaps. Check valley flashing for rust or holes. Clean debris from valleys where water channels. Clear debris from around skylight curbs. Inspect attic exhaust vents for bird nests or blockages. Nail any popped nails back down and seal with roofing cement.

The attic tells the story of your roof's health. On a sunny day after rain, go into the attic with a flashlight. Look for water stains, dark streaks, or white mineral deposits on rafters and the underside of the roof deck. Check for sunlight peeking through gaps. Inspect insulation for wet spots. Check around all roof penetrations from the inside: plumbing vents, bathroom exhaust vents, chimneys, and skylights. Look for rust on nails or flashing. Check for mold or mildew growth, which indicates persistent moisture. If you find active leaks, mark them with a nail or marker on the roof deck so a roofer can find them easily from the outside.

Some roof issues are safe to DIY if you can reach them from a ladder or the roof edge. Replace a missing shingle: slide a new one under the overlapping course, secure it with four roofing nails, and apply a dab of roofing cement under the tab. Seal lifted flashing with asphalt roofing cement applied with a putty knife. Fill small gaps around pipe boots with butyl caulk. Clean debris from valleys and around chimneys. For damaged ridge caps, replace the cap shingle and nail with 1¾-inch roofing nails. Never attempt DIY repairs on steep slopes, near power lines, or on roofs over two stories. When in doubt, call a roofer.

A professional roofer brings expertise and insurance that a DIY inspection cannot match. They will inspect the roof structure from underneath in the attic, check for hail damage that is invisible to untrained eyes, verify proper attic ventilation, and assess the remaining life of your roof. Many offer thermal imaging to detect hidden moisture. A professional inspection costs $100–$300 but can save thousands by catching damage early. After the inspection, you will receive a detailed report with photos and a prioritized repair list. Schedule your inspection in early spring before the spring rain season begins and before roofers get booked up for summer storm season.